The diesel engine (also known as a compression-ignition engine) is an inner combustion engine that uses the heat of compression to initiate ignition and burn the fuel that happens to be injected into the combustion chamber. This contrasts with spark-ignition engines such as a petrol engine (gasoline engine) or gas engine (using a gaseous fuel as opposed to gasoline), which use a spark plug to ignite an air-fuel mixture.

The diesel engine gets the greatest thermal efficiency of any standard internal or external burning engine due to its very high compression ratio. Low-speed diesel machines (as used in ships and various other applications exactly where overall engine weight is relatively unimportant) can have a thermal efficiency that surpasses 50%.

Diesel engines are manufactured in two-stroke and four-stroke versions. They were originally used as a much more efficient replacement for stationary steam engines. Because the 1910s they have been used in submarines and ships. Use in locomotives, trucks, hefty gear and electric generating plants followed later on. In the 1930s, they slowly began to be made use of in a couple of automobiles. Since the 1970s, the use of diesel engines in larger on-road and off-road vehicles in the USA increased. According to the British Society of Motor Manufacturing and Traders, the EU average for diesel cars take into account 50% of the total sold, including 70% in France and 38% into the UK.

Diesel engines have the lowest specific fuel consumption of any large internal combustion engine employing a single cycle, 0.26 lb/hp (0.16 kg/kWh) for very large marine engines (combined cycle energy flowers are much more efficient, but employ two engines rather than one). Two-stroke diesels with large pressure forced induction, particularly turbocharging, make up a large percentage of the very largest diesel engines.

In North America, diesel engines are primarily used in large trucks, where the low-stress, high-efficiency period leads to much longer engine life and lower working costs. These advantages also make the diesel engine ideal for use in the heavy-haul railroad environment.

Diesel's original engine injected fuel with the assistance of compressed air, which atomized the fuel and pushed it into the engine through a nozzle (a similar principle to an aerosol spray). The nozzle opening had been closed by a pin valve lifted by the camshaft to initiate the fuel inject

### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (including 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm sockets)
2. **Ratchet Wrench**
3. **Torque Wrench**
4. **Belt Tensioner Tool** (or a long-handled ratchet)
5. **Pliers**
6. **Screwdriver Set**
7. **Flashlight** (for visibility)
8. **Replacement Serpentine Belt**
9. **Service Manual** (specific to the Hino model)

### Safety Precautions:
1. **Disconnect the Battery**: Always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to prevent electrical shorts.
2. **Ensure Engine is Cool**: Wait for the engine to cool down to avoid burns.
3. **Wear Safety Glasses and Gloves**: Protect your eyes and hands from debris and sharp edges.
4. **Secure the Vehicle**: If on a lift, ensure it is properly secured. If on ramps, use wheel chocks.

### Step-by-Step Replacement Process:

#### Step 1: Inspect the Existing Belt
- **Check Condition**: Before removal, inspect the existing serpentine belt for wear, cracks, or fraying. This helps confirm the need for replacement.

#### Step 2: Locate the Belt Routing Diagram
- **Find the Diagram**: Look for the serpentine belt routing diagram, usually located on a sticker near the radiator or in the engine bay. If not available, consult the service manual.

#### Step 3: Remove the Old Belt
1. **Release Tension**:
- Use the belt tensioner tool or a long-handled ratchet to rotate the tensioner pulley counter-clockwise.
- This will relieve tension on the belt.

2. **Remove the Belt**:
- While holding the tensioner, slide the belt off the pulleys carefully. Note the routing.

#### Step 4: Inspect Pulleys
- **Check Pulleys and Tensioner**: Inspect all pulleys for wear, damage, or noise. If any are damaged, replacement is necessary before installing the new belt.

#### Step 5: Install the New Belt
1. **Route the New Belt**:
- Install the new serpentine belt according to the routing diagram.
- Ensure it sits properly in the grooves of each pulley.

2. **Reapply Tension**:
- Use the tensioner tool again to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt over the last pulley.
- Release the tensioner to apply tension to the new belt.

#### Step 6: Double-Check Installation
- **Verify Routing**: Ensure the belt is correctly routed and seated in all grooves.
- **Check Tension**: Make sure the belt is tight and does not slip on the pulleys.

#### Step 7: Reconnect the Battery
- **Reconnect Negative Terminal**: Reattach the negative battery terminal and ensure a secure connection.

#### Step 8: Test the Installation
1. **Start the Engine**:
- Start the vehicle and observe the belt in operation.

2. **Listen for Noises**:
- Listen for any unusual noises that might indicate improper installation or pulley issues.

3. **Check for Proper Function**: Ensure all accessories driven by the serpentine belt are functioning correctly (e.g., alternator, power steering).

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Incorrect Routing**: Double-check the routing diagram before installation. Incorrect routing can cause premature failure.
- **Neglecting Other Components**: Always inspect related components (tensioner, idler pulleys) for wear.
- **Overtightening**: Avoid overtightening the tensioner; it can lead to premature wear.
- **Forgetting to Reconnect Battery**: Always remember to reconnect the battery after finishing the job.

### Replacement Parts:
- **Purchase a Quality Serpentine Belt**: Ensure the belt is compatible with the specific Hino model.
- **Consider Replacing Tensioner and Idler Pulley**: If they show signs of wear, replace them during the belt change to prevent future issues.

Following these steps will ensure a successful serpentine belt replacement on a Hino FR1E, FS1E, FY1E, SH1E, SS1E, or ZS1E.
rteeqp73

- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves (nitrile or mechanic’s), and ear protection if engine runs loud.
- Work on a flat level surface, set the parking brake, and block wheels firmly with chocks.
- Never put any body parts under a vehicle supported only by a jack — always use rated jack stands or ramps.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby when working with hot fluids and a running engine.
- Transmission pressure testing requires the engine to run and the transmission to be engaged. Expect moving parts and hot oil.

- What this procedure does and why you need the workshop manual
- Transmission pressure testing measures hydraulic pressure at ports to verify pump output and valve-body function.
- Exact test port locations, adapter sizes, test pressures, and test sequences vary by transmission model. Obtain the Hino workshop manual or the transmission manufacturer’s service manual for the exact FR1E/FS1E/FY1E/SH1E/SS1E/ZS1E transmission used in your truck before proceeding.

- Essential tools you will need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Transmission pressure gauge kit (mechanical)
- Description: Dial or digital gauge rated to at least 0–500 psi (or appropriate range for the transmission), with flexible high-pressure hose and a set of transmission test adapters/banjo fittings.
- How to use: Select adapter that matches the transmission test port, fit adapter, attach gauge hose hand-tight, start engine, read stable pressure on the gauge. Use the gauge to measure static and dynamic pressures while following the manual’s shift/gear sequence.
- Why required: Direct, reliable measurement of hydraulic pressure under operating conditions.
- Adapter fittings and braided hose set
- Description: Metal fittings (banjo, screw-in, or quick-connect) that adapt the gauge hose to the transmission’s test port; may include crush washers or sealing O-rings.
- How to use: Choose correct adapter per manual, use new crush washer or O-ring when fitting, tighten to recommended torque (hand tight + specified amount) to prevent leaks.
- Why required: Most transmissions do not have a standard garden-hose thread; correct adapter is critical to make a leak-free connection.
- Line wrenches / flare-nut wrenches and common metric sockets
- Description: Wrenches sized for transmission external fittings (often 12, 14, 17 mm) and a set of metric sockets and ratchet for bolts.
- How to use: Use a line wrench on hydraulic fittings to avoid rounding the flats. Use sockets for bolts that secure adapters or covers.
- Why required: To remove or loosen fitting nuts and to install adapters without damaging fittings.
- Torque wrench
- Description: Click-type torque wrench covering the expected torque range (e.g., 10–150 Nm).
- How to use: Tighten test port plugs and adapter bolts to the specified torque in the manual to avoid leaks or damage.
- Why required: Proper sealing and to avoid stripping threads or over-torquing delicate fittings.
- Fluid thermometer or infrared temp gun
- Description: Probe thermometer for fluid or infrared thermometer to measure transmission pan or transmission oil temperature.
- How to use: Warm the transmission to operating temperature and confirm temperature with the probe before recording pressure readings.
- Why required: Pressure specs depend on fluid temperature; testing cold gives misleading results.
- Vehicle lift/ramps and jack stands
- Description: Ramps or hydraulic jack and heavy-duty jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
- How to use: Drive onto ramps or lift with jack and always support with stands before entering under the vehicle.
- Why required: Safe access to the transmission test port(s) and secure working environment.
- Wheel chocks and blocks
- Description: Solid rubber or wooden chocks.
- How to use: Place behind wheels to prevent rolling.
- Why required: Prevent vehicle movement while engine runs.
- Drain pan and fluid pump or squeeze bottle for topping up
- Description: Large capacity oil drain pan and hand pump or squeeze bottle to return fluid to the transmission without overfilling.
- How to use: Catch any spilled fluid when removing plugs, then use pump to add fluid back to the dipstick/fill port to correct level after testing.
- Why required: Testing may vent or spill fluid; you must be able to catch and restore fluid.
- Clean rags and pick tools
- Description: Lint-free shop rags and small picks to remove debris.
- How to use: Clean test ports and join areas before installing adapters to avoid contamination.
- Why required: Prevent dirt from entering transmission.
- O-rings, crush washers, replacement test port plugs
- Description: Sealing parts that match the transmission’s test ports.
- How to use: Replace old washers/O-rings whenever a port is opened to ensure leak-free sealing.
- Why required: Reusing old seals risks leaks and contamination.
- Scan tool (recommended for electronically controlled transmissions)
- Description: OBD2/diagnostic tool that can read transmission temperature, pressure (if available), and command shift solenoids.
- How to use: Connect to vehicle connector and monitor transmission parameters, command shifts while measuring pressure.
- Why required: Synchronizes pressure checks with commanded states, and provides stored fault codes that may explain low/high pressure.
- Replacement transmission fluid and filter (for refill or service)
- Description: Correct grade OEM or recommended ATF or specified transmission oil and a new filter/set of O-rings if you remove the pan or filter.
- How to use: Use fluid to top up after testing or to replace during service if contamination is suspected.
- Why required: Testing may lose fluid; low fluid invalidates pressure readings and risks damage.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level, follow your workshop manual for model-specific details)
- Prepare vehicle: park on level ground, chock wheels, support with stands/ramps, engage parking brake.
- Warm transmission: start engine and bring transmission fluid to operating temperature (check manual for target temp). Use thermometer to confirm.
- Locate test port(s): consult workshop manual for the location of the transmission pressure test port(s) for your truck’s transmission. Clean area thoroughly.
- Fit adapter: install the correct adapter/plug into the test port using new crush washers/O-rings. Tighten to specified torque.
- Attach pressure gauge: connect the gauge hose to the adapter securely. Ensure hose routing keeps clear of moving parts and hot surfaces.
- Start engine and read idle pressure: with vehicle secure, start the engine, allow idle to stabilize, and record pressure from the gauge.
- Follow test sequence: select the gears and conditions specified by the manual (e.g., P/N/D, first/second gear, apply throttle percentages, or dyno/load tests). Record pressures at each step and note temperature.
- Interpret readings: compare recorded pressures to the workshop manual specifications. Look for low pressure (pump/line/filter issue), high pressure (stuck regulator/plugged return), fluctuating pressure (valve body, worn parts, or air in system).
- Shut down safely: return to Park, turn off engine, remove gauge, and immediately reinstall the test port plug with a new seal torqued to spec.
- Clean up and refill if needed: top up fluid to the correct level and dispose of any drained fluid properly according to regulations.
- Test drive and recheck: after reassembly and refill, perform a road test and recheck shift quality and fluid level.

- Common results and what they mean (when you might need to replace parts)
- Low pressure at pump output or across entire system
- Likely causes: worn or failed pump, severely clogged strainer or screen, severe fluid degradation (sludge), leak in hydraulic circuit.
- Replacement parts likely needed: transmission pump assembly or pump rebuild kit; transmission filter/strainer; transmission fluid.
- Why: Low hydraulic pressure prevents proper band/clutch engagement and causes slipping and poor shifts.
- Low pressure under load but OK at idle
- Likely causes: worn pump gears, internal leaks (worn clutch plates or piston seals), worn pressure regulator valve.
- Replacement parts likely needed: pump, clutch packs, piston seals, valve body parts (regulator valve).
- Why: Under load the system cannot maintain pressure because internal leakage or insufficient pump output increases.
- High pressure or overpressure
- Likely causes: stuck regulator/relief valve, blocked return line or cooler.
- Replacement parts likely needed: pressure regulator valve, valve body parts, replace return line or flush cooler, replace blocked filter.
- Why: Excessive pressure can cause harsh shifts and damage seals.
- Fluctuating or erratic pressure
- Likely causes: valve body sticking, solenoid failure, air in the system, seized or intermittently failing pump.
- Replacement parts likely needed: solenoids (for electronic control), valve body components or complete valve body, pump.
- Why: Inconsistent hydraulic control causes variable pressures and unpredictable shifting.
- No pressure (zero)
- Likely causes: pump drive failure (mechanical), complete pump failure, broken drive gear/shaft.
- Replacement parts likely needed: pump and drive components, internal transmission repairs.
- Why: Without pump output, no hydraulic actuation can occur.

- When filter or fluid replacement is required (and why)
- Always replace the transmission filter and screen if you remove the pan or if contamination is suspected.
- Replace fluid if the fluid is burnt, dark, smells bad, contains metal particles, or if the truck’s service interval calls for it.
- Why: Clogged filters reduce pressure and flow. Dirty or degraded fluid reduces lubrication and causes pump/valve wear.

- Notes on parts sourcing and costs (brief)
- Use OEM Hino or specified transmission manufacturer parts for critical components (pump, valve body, solenoids, filter).
- Aftermarket filters and some seals are generally acceptable; pumps and valve bodies are precision parts—choose reputable suppliers.
- Costs vary widely by transmission and severity of repair; simple filter/fluid service is low-cost, pump or valve-body replacement can be expensive.

- Final checks and documentation
- Record pressure readings, fluid temperature, and the test sequence. Compare to manual specs and keep records for future diagnostics.
- If you find out-of-spec pressures and are not comfortable performing internal repairs (pump/valve body/clutches), consult a qualified transmission technician.

- Quick reminders (no fluff)
- Get the exact Hino workshop manual for port locations and pressure specs before starting.
- Use correct adapters and fresh sealing washers.
- Warm to operating temp and secure the vehicle before running the engine.
- Replace filter and fluid if contamination or pressure loss is found.
- If pump or valve body is suspected, replacement or professional overhaul is usually required.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

Overview — theory in one paragraph
- The connecting rod (conrod) transfers the combustion force from the piston to the crankshaft, converting reciprocating motion into rotation. Think of the piston as your hand catching a ball and the conrod as your forearm transferring that force to the elbow (crankshaft). The conrod big end rides on a thin replaceable bearing shell around the crank journal; the little end pivots on the piston wrist/pin. If the conrod or its bearings wear, loosen, or fail the engine will knock, lose oil pressure, drop power, and can rapidly destroy the crank, block or cause a rod to punch through the block.

Components (detailed descriptions)
- Connecting rod body: forged steel (usually) shaped I- or H-beam. Has two ends: big end (crank journal) and small end (wrist pin).
- Rod cap: bolt-on half of the big end. Mated to the rod body and machined together. Always match-mark cap to rod.
- Big-end bearing shells (upper and lower halves): thin replaceable steel-backed/bronze-lined shells that provide the running surface between rod and crank journal. Have locating tangs.
- Small-end bush or bearing: either a pressed-in bronze bushing or full bearing that supports the wrist/piston pin. Some modern diesel rods use an oil-fed small end.
- Wrist/piston pin (gudgeon pin): hardened pin that passes through piston and small end, allowing pivot. May be full-floating (retained by circlips) or fixed (press-fit).
- Circlips / retaining rings: keep a floating pin in the piston.
- Oil holes/passages: drilled through the rod or cap to feed oil to the bearing or small end. Must be clean.
- Bolts or studs and nuts that clamp cap to rod: may be torque-to-yield (replace once) or conventional high-strength bolts. Their preload holds bearing clearance and alignment.
- Bearing shells thrust tabs: small tangs that locate shells and stop rotation.
- Oil squirter/nozzle (if present): cools piston; sometimes attached to the rod (rare) or block — confirm for your engine.

Why a connecting-rod repair is needed (symptoms & causes)
- Symptoms: strong metallic knocking, especially under load; sudden bearing knock at idle; low oil pressure; metal in oil filter or pan; seized piston/rod; blown head gasket from uneven forces; catastrophic rod failure (rod through block).
- Causes: oil starvation, contaminated oil, bearing wear, incorrect assembly (wrong clearance, reversed cap), overstress from detonation or hydrolock, fatigue cracks, stretched bolts.

Tools & consumables
- Basic: engine stand or good support, hoist (if removing engine), clean bench, torque wrench (suitable range), sockets, breaker bars.
- Measuring: micrometer, inside micrometer/bore gauge (for big-end bore), dial bore gauge, telescoping gauges, plastigauge (for quick bearing clearance check), feeler gauges, vernier caliper.
- Specialty: piston ring compressor, piston pin press or arbor press, soft-faced mallet, straight edge, dial indicator (for crank runout), magnaflux/dye-penetrant for crack check.
- Consumables: new bearing shells, new conrod bolts if required, assembly lube, engine oil, solvent/parts cleaner, new piston pin circlips if needed, gasket set, threadlocker (if specified), lint-free rags.
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves.

Safety first (don’t skip)
- Support engine or vehicle securely. Heavy parts can kill.
- Drain oil and coolant; hot parts can burn.
- Keep all bearings and parts clean and dry; contamination kills bearings.
- Replace any torque-to-yield bolts — do not reuse unless manual allows.

Overview of the procedure (high level, then details)
- Two common approaches: in-frame partial engine disassembly (remove head and oil pan, then remove rod caps and push pistons out top) or remove engine and work on bench/stand (recommended for thorough job). Bench work = cleaner, easier measurements and checks.
- Always follow these principles: mark/match parts, clean, measure, compare to manual, replace if out of spec, reassemble with correct clearance and torque.

Step-by-step procedure (detailed)
1) Preparation and marking
- Label and number each rod and cap with the cylinder number and orientation (e.g., “1F” where F = forward). Use paint or scribe. Rod and cap are machined together; never swap caps between rods.
- Photograph or document orientation of pistons if required.

2) Disassembly (engine on stand recommended)
- Remove oil pan, oil pump drives if needed, and rotate crank to bring piston of cylinder #1 to BDC/ TDC depending on method.
- Remove rod cap nuts/bolts while the rod is supported; if the piston is near top, rotate crank to lower piston so cap can be removed safely.
- Pull off the cap and remove the lower shell. Support piston from top or bottom as you remove cap so the piston/rod assembly doesn’t drop or tip.
- Push piston up and out of the cylinder (when head is removed) or remove crank to separate if needed. If removing the piston from the rod (to replace rod), push out the wrist pin using press, machining fixture, or hand tools depending on fit type — retain circlips or replace.

3) Inspection — rod & cap
- Visual: check for scoring, heat discoloration (blue), gouges, cracks. Use dye-penetrant or magnaflux to check for cracks on rod shank and cap.
- Dimensional:
- Measure big-end bore diameter with inside micrometer/dial bore gauge (with cap assembled but unstressed to see ovality).
- Check roundness and taper compared to specs.
- Measure crank journal diameter at multiple positions; record.
- Calculate bearing clearance = journal diameter subtracted from big-end internal diameter, or use bearing shell thickness and journal diameter; or use plastigauge for final confirmation.
- Check small-end bore for wear; measure wrist-pin diameter and fit — clearance should be per manual.
- Check rod length (center-to-center distance) if needed; a bent rod changes length and causes piston position/valve clearance issues.
- Check rod bolts: measure bolt diameter and length or use stretch measurement; most manufacturers specify replacing bolts when removing if torque-to-yield or if beyond stretch spec.

4) Bearing inspection
- Examine shells for fluting, metal transfer, overheating (discoloration), scoring. Replace if any damage.
- Determine if repairable: if big-end or cap are out-of-round beyond serviceable limits, rod must be replaced or reconditioned (rebore and fit oversized bearings) — this is a machine-shop operation.

5) Small-end & piston pin
- For press-fit small-ends or bushings, inspect for fretting; replace bush if worn. Piston pin should rotate with slight clearance, not rattle. If pin is scored, replace pin and/or piston as needed.

6) Reconditioning/replacement decisions
- Replace rods if cracked, bent, or out-of-spec bore and cannot be machined.
- Replace bearings whenever they show wear or when reconnecting after repair.
- Always replace rod bolts if manufacturer says so or if stretch beyond limit.

7) Cleanliness and prep for reassembly
- Thoroughly clean oil passages in rod and cap with solvent and compressed air. Blow from the oil gallery out to avoid lodging debris.
- Fit shells dry first to check seating and tang alignment.
- Apply engine assembly lube to bearing surfaces and journals during assembly.

8) Reassembly with correct clearance (use manual values)
- Method A — measuring clearance with plastigauge:
- Fit bearing shells in rod and cap, assemble cap hand-tight on rod, then tighten to torque spec.
- Place a strip of plastigauge along the crank journal, assemble cap and torque to final spec, then remove cap and read plastigauge width to determine oil clearance. Match to manual tolerance. If clearance is too large, oversized bearings or machining needed; too small — incorrect shells or wrong cap.
- Method B — pre-measure:
- Measure journal and shell thickness and compute clearance; verify against spec.

9) Final torquing and orientation
- Clean threads, apply specified lubricant/antiseize if required by manual.
- Install new bolts if required. Torque in stages to specified torque, then angle if required by torque-to-yield. Follow exact sequence and values from Hino workshop manual.
- Ensure cap faces and rod bodies align; match marks line up. Check that bearing tangs seat correctly.

10) Rotate and check
- Rotate crank by hand several revolutions; motion should be smooth without tight spots. Measure endplay if required.
- Refit oil pump pickup and prime oiling system or crank with starter (without fuel) to build oil pressure and inspect for leaks and immediate oil pressure rise.

11) Reinstall top-end and test
- Reinstall pistons/cylinder head according to manual (ring gaps, ring orientation, torque head bolts in correct sequence).
- After full reassembly, prime oil, start engine, monitor oil pressure and listen for knocks. Do not rev hard for break-in period.
- After initial run, recheck torque on accessible fasteners per manual schedule.

What can go wrong (common mistakes and consequences)
- Wrong cap or swapped parts: causes incorrect alignment, rapid bearing wear, knock.
- Incorrect bearing clearance (too tight): causes seizure/seized bearing and catastrophic damage; (too loose): low oil pressure and knocking.
- Dirty assembly: particulate causes rapid bearing scoring and failure.
- Reusing torque-to-yield bolts: bolts may fail, causing cap loosening and catastrophic failure.
- Cross-threaded or improperly torqued bolts: uneven clamping and bearing distortion.
- Bent rod (not detected): changes piston position, causes piston-to-valve or piston-to-head interference and engine failure.
- Oil passages blocked: starvation of small-end and big-end bearings — rapid failure.
- Incorrect orientation of caps or rotated shells: bearing movement and failure.

Quick checks and tolerances to confirm (must verify with the Hino manual)
- Always use the Hino FR/FS/FY/SH/SS/ZS1E workshop manual for exact:
- Bearing radial clearance (big-end),
- Small-end clearance,
- Rod bolt torque (and whether bolts are torque-to-yield),
- Rod length tolerance and crank journal diameters,
- Piston pin end clearance and ring gap specs.
- Typical diesel big-end clearances are small fractions of a millimeter (on the order of 0.02–0.08 mm) — do not guess; measure.

Final checklist before first start
- New bearings installed, correct clearance confirmed (plastigauge or measurements).
- Rod caps matched and torqued to spec; bolts replaced if required.
- All oil passages cleaned and prime-lubed; oil pump and pickup reinstalled and free.
- Crank and rods rotate smoothly by hand.
- No debris left in sump/cylinders; new oil and filter installed.
- Break-in procedure planned; monitor oil pressure and knock closely during first run.

Concise troubleshooting after reassembly
- Loud knock immediately: stop, check torque and cap orientation; inspect bearings and journals.
- Low oil pressure: prime pump, check oil pump pickup and screen for debris, measure bearing clearances.
- Persistent knock after run-in: check for bent rod, worn bearings, or piston damage.

Closing (practical advice)
- If you are a beginner: remove the engine or work with it on an engine stand for clearer access and cleaner work. Measure everything—replace rather than try to reuse suspect parts. Consult and follow the Hino workshop manual values exactly for torques and clearances. If machine work (rebore/resize) is required, use a reputable machine shop.

No further questions per request.
rteeqp73