1HD-T

The 1HD-T is a 4.2 L (4164 cc) straight-6 SOHC turbocharged diesel system of direct injections build. Bore try 94 mm and swing was 100 mm, with a compression ratio of 18.6:1. Result try 164 hp (121 kW) at 3600 rpm with 267 lb*ft (361 N*m) of torque at 1400 rpm.
1HD-FT

The 1HD-FT was a 4.2 L (4164 cc) straight-6 24 device SOHC turbocharged diesel system of direct shot design. Bore try 94 mm and swing was 100 mm, with a compression proportion of 18.6:1. Known as the "multivalve" it offers 4 valves per cylinder (2 inlet, 2 fatigue), central vertically installed injector, and no glow plugs but alternatively an intake radiance display heater (like the subsequent electronic 1HD-FTE just below). The 4 valves per cylinder are actuated by the SOHC, simply by using bridges so each rocker actuates a pair of valves. Output is 168 hp (125 kW) ECE at 3600 rpm with 380 N*m (280 ft-lb) of torque ECE at 2500 rpm.

1995 Toyota Land Cruiser HDJ80

1HD-FTE

The 1HD-FTE are a 4.2 L (4164 cc) straight-6 24 device turbocharged diesel motor. Bore was 94 mm and stroke try 100 mm, with a compression proportion of 18.8:1. Output try 164 hp (122 kW) at 3400 rpm with 280 lb*ft (380 N*m) of torque at 1400 rpm. The gas system was direct injections, and adopts the digital gasoline injection (EFI) system. Redline with this system has reached 4200 rpm.

The 4 valves per cylinder become actuated by the SOHC, with bridges therefore each rocker actuates a set of valves.

The variation with intercooler as fitted to HDJ100 section wagons features 202 hp (151 kW) at 3400 rpm with 317.1 lb*ft (430 N*m) of torque at 1200-3200 rpm with a redline reaching 4000 rpm. A reduced output 122 kW non-intercooled variation abilities HDJ78 Troop company and HDJ79 energy variations.

Furthermore some of the HDB50 and HDB51 Toyota Coaster is installed with this specific 1HD-FTE engine.

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TOYOTA LANDCRUISER HDJ80 1HD-FT ENGINE

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Toyota Fj80 1HD-FT

Video walkthrough of a 1996 Toyota FZJ80 Landcruiser where we installed a factory Toyota 24 valve fully mechanical (NO ECU) 1HD-FT turbo diesel powerplant.

Quick question before I start: which gearbox is fitted to your 1HD-FT (vehicle and year helps)? Examples: R150F, R151F, H55F, etc. Shift-fork replacement steps and torque/shim specs vary by gearbox. If you give the gearbox model I’ll give a bolt-by-bolt tear-down and reassembly checklist with torque numbers.

Below is a full beginner-friendly explanation (theory, every relevant component, diagnostics, what can go wrong) plus a safe, general step-by-step procedure and required tools/parts. This is written for a typical Toyota 5‑speed manual-style gearbox (sliding-gear, synchronised) that the 1HD-FT is commonly mated to. Use the factory service manual for exact dimensions, torque values and shims for your gearbox.

Essentials and safety
- Safety first: work on a level surface, chock wheels, disconnect battery, use jack stands rated for your vehicle, wear eye protection and gloves. Gearbox removal is heavy — use a transmission jack or hoist; don’t rely on a floor jack alone.
- Have the factory service manual or a reliable repair manual for your exact gearbox before you start. Many critical numbers (torque, clearances, shim locations) are gearbox-specific.

Theory — why shift forks and what they do (analogy)
- Analogy: imagine a train of gears running along rails. Shift forks are the “fingers” that push collars (sliding sleeves) along the shaft to lock a desired gear to the output shaft. Synchronizers are the “speed-matching clutch plates” that let the collar slide and engage smoothly. If the finger (fork) is bent, worn or loose in its pivot, the collar won’t fully engage or may slip out — like a toothless gear selector that can’t hold the gear.
- Function summary:
- Shift forks move synchronizer sleeves/hubs laterally.
- Synchronizers match rotational speeds between gear and shaft before the sleeve locks it.
- Selector shafts/rails guide fork movement from the external shift lever/linkage.
- Why replacement might be needed:
- Forks can bend from hard engagement or a missed gear shift.
- Fork ears wear where they sit on hub/sleeve, or the fork pivot bushings wear, creating play.
- Excessive wear = sloppy gear selection, gear pop-out under load, grinding, inability to select gear.

Every component you’ll encounter (what it is, what it does)
- Transmission housing/case: holds everything; two halves on many Toyota boxes. Protects internals and mounts seals.
- Input shaft: driven by clutch/flywheel; supplies torque into gearbox.
- Output shaft (main/secondary shaft): sends torque out to driveshaft; gears slide/lock to this to transmit selected ratio.
- Countershaft / layshaft: fixed shaft with all the mating gears that mesh with gears on the output shaft.
- Fixed gears (on countershaft): always meshed; they transfer torque to output shaft gears.
- Sliding gears (or hubs and sleeves): pieces that are moved by synchronizers/forks to lock a gear to the output shaft.
- Synchronizer assembly (sleeve, hub, synchro rings/baulk rings, springs): allows speed matching so the sleeve can slide without grinding. The baulk ring has friction surfaces; the hub holds the sleeve.
- Shift forks: forked arms that engage a groove in the synchronizer sleeve and push it laterally. Usually three forks for 1–2, 3–4, and reverse (layout varies).
- Fork pins / pivot pins / rails: pivot points and guide rails the forks ride on.
- Selector shafts (rails): rods that slide through forks when you move the external linkage.
- Detent balls and springs: provide tactile shift positions and keep rails in detent positions.
- Bearings (input/output/countershaft): support shafts, maintain endplay, smooth rotation.
- Thrust washers and shims: control axial clearance and endfloat on shafts.
- Snap rings, circlips, retaining plates: hold components in place.
- Shift linkage (external): connects the gearshift lever to selector rails — wear here can mimic fork problems.
- Seals, gaskets: keep oil in and dirt out.

Symptoms that indicate fork problems
- Gear jumps out of 3rd/4th/2nd etc under load.
- Inability to select a gear or gear “notching”/grinding on engagement.
- Excessive lateral play in gear lever or sloppy detents.
- Metal shavings in gearbox oil (inspect magnet/strainer).
- Visible wear on the top of forks or worn fork ears/bushings when case opened.

Inspection points — what to look for
- Visual: check fork ears where they contact hub/sleeve for wear, gouges, or rounding. Check for bending.
- Measure: fork thickness where it wears; compare to service limit. Measure bore of pivot bushings for ovality.
- Check synchronizer rings: excessive wear on friction face or broken keys = replace.
- Check hub/sleeve splines and teeth for wear or broken dogs.
- Inspect rails and pivot pins for wear and scoring.
- Bearings: roughness, play, discoloration = replace.
- Case mating surfaces: check for cracks or damage.
- Magnet/strainer: metal filings often indicate internal damage.

Tools and consumables you’ll need
- Factory manual, exploded diagrams, torque specs, and shim info for your box.
- Tools: full metric socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar, wrench set, screwdrivers, snap-ring pliers, soft‑jawed bench vise, drift punches, hammer, bearing puller/press or suitable pullers, dial indicator (for end float), feeler gauges, calipers, impact or breaker for stubborn bolts (careful), transmission jack or hoist.
- Consumables: new gaskets, seals, gear oil, assembly grease, cleaning solvent, new fork set (OEM preferred), new synchronizer rings (recommended), bearings if worn, new snap rings, threadlock where specified, new pivot bushings, replacement shims if needed.
- Work area: clean bench, parts trays/labels, camera or phone to take reassembly photos.

General step-by-step procedure (high level, safe for a beginner to follow conceptually)
Note: This is a generalised procedure. For your specific gearbox I will give exact bolt locations, torque values, and shim placements if you tell me the gearbox model.

1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect battery.
- Drain gearbox oil and inspect magnet/strainer for metal.
- Label any linkage, cable or electrical connections. Take photos of linkage positions.
- Remove driveshafts/axles, shift linkage, transfer case (if fitted), clutch slave cylinder or hydraulic lines (cap or clamp to avoid fluid loss), heat shields as needed.
- Support gearbox with jack or hoist. Remove bellhousing bolts to engine (or separate from engine as a unit) and drop the gearbox assembly free onto transmission jack.

2) Strip gearbox exterior and split case
- Remove any external covers and selector housing/inspection plates.
- Unbolt case halves following manual sequence (some boxes have bearing preload shims; be careful).
- Carefully separate case halves; do not pry near bearing seats (note direction of pull and support shafts).

3) Internal inspection and diagnosis
- With case split, inspect forks, synchronizers, shafts and rails per the inspection checklist above.
- Remove synchronizer hubs/sleeves and inspect dog teeth and splines for wear.
- Remove shift forks: usually they slide off their pivot pins and lift away. Note orientation and which fork is which — mark them with tape/labels or photos.
- Inspect pivot pins/bushings: if loose or worn, replace bushings or pin.
- Check countershaft and output shaft bearings for smoothness and play. Replace bearings if rough or if endfloat exceeds spec.

4) Replace components
- New forks: ensure they are OEM or exact-match. Replace bushings/pivot pins with new parts; some bushings are interference fit and require pressing.
- If synchronizers or sleeves are worn, replace those at the same time. It’s common practice to refresh all wear items while trans is open.
- Press off/replace worn bearings using correct tools to avoid damaging shafts.
- Replace all seals and gaskets at reassembly.

5) Clean and prepare for reassembly
- Clean all parts with solvent, dry completely.
- Lightly lube bearings and moving surfaces with assembly grease/gear oil.
- Replace damaged snap rings and springs.

6) Reassembly
- Follow the factory sequence: install shafts, bearings, synchronizers, then forks. Ensure forks fully engage their sleeves and sit correctly on pivot pins.
- Check that selector rails and detents operate smoothly; check for proper detent engagement.
- Set any specified endfloat on shafts with shims as required. (This is critical — improper endplay can cause bearing failure or mis-meshing.)
- Torque all case bolts to spec and in correct order.
- Reinstall external covers, linkage, and seals. Reattach transmission to vehicle with correct torque on bellhousing bolts.

7) Adjustment and checks before final use
- With gearbox reinstalled, check shift pattern function and linkage adjustment.
- Refill with correct grade and quantity of gear oil.
- Run-in and road-test: start with short low-load drives; listen for noise and check for gear pop-out. Recheck oil and any fluid leaks after a short drive.

Common mistakes and what can go wrong during repair
- Not using the service manual: wrong shims or torques = premature failure.
- Reusing worn synchronizers or bearings: will cause rapid recurrence of problems.
- Improper alignment of forks/hubs: causes hard shifting, damage to dog teeth, or gear pop-out.
- Forgetting or misplacing shims that set endfloat: can lead to bearing overload or gear mis-mesh and noise.
- Over-torquing or cross-threading bolts: can crack case or strip threads.
- Using the wrong fork or mixed-up orientation: a fork made for one gear may have different geometry.
- Contamination: dirt or metal chips left in case cause accelerated wear.
- Incorrectly seating snap rings/circlips: components can shift during operation.
- Not checking the clutch/flywheel: sometimes clutch problems are misdiagnosed as gearbox problems. Inspect the clutch and pilot bearing while gearbox is off.
- Not replacing pivot bushings: replacing forks but leaving worn pins/bushings gives only temporary fix.

Practical measurement tips (inspection thresholds)
- Visual wear at fork ear thickness or big groove = replace. If you can see metal thinning or edge rounding, replace.
- Any visible scoring or heat discoloration on gears, hubs or rings = replace those components.
- Excessive play in pivot bores: measure with calipers or feeler gauges; if ovality or oversize beyond manual spec → bushings or pin replacement.
- Synchronizer ring wear: if the friction surface is gone or chamfered badly, replace.

When to consider a professional rebuild
- If multiple bearings, gears, synchronizers are worn — a professional rebuild bench with presses and measurement jigs is recommended.
- If you lack a hoist/gearbox jack, a pro shop will reduce risk of injury and damage.
- Complex endfloat and shim adjustments, and bearing preloads, can be technical and require measurement tools. If you’re unsure, have a shop torque and check final clearances.

Checklist for parts to buy before you begin
- New shift fork set (OEM recommended) and any associated pivot bushings/pins.
- Synchronizer ring set (at least for gears near the worn fork).
- Full seal and gasket kit for gearbox.
- Bearings (if any are suspect) and thrust washers/shims as per manual.
- Correct gear oil, cleaner, assembly paste.
- New snap rings, detent springs/balls if worn.

Final notes (practical tips)
- Label everything. Take lots of photos during disassembly; you’ll thank yourself at reassembly.
- Work methodically: one component at a time, bag and label bolts.
- If you find metal shards or catastrophic damage (broken teeth, deep gouges), do not reassemble — you may need a full rebuild or replacement gearbox.
- After reassembly, start with low-speed, low-load driving to confirm the fix, then recheck oil level and leak points.

If you tell me your exact gearbox model (or the year/model of your Land Cruiser/vehicle), I will give:
- Exact disassembly order with bolt callouts,
- Case split procedure, bearing removal tips,
- Correct torque values and shim placement instructions,
- Common trap bolts/threads to watch,
- A numbered reassembly checklist specific to that box.

Ready to proceed with the step-by-step for your exact gearbox?
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