The Toyota Land Cruiser is a series of four-wheel drive vehicles fashioned by the Japanese car maker Toyota Motor Corporation. Programming of the first generation secure Cruiser began in 1951 as Toyota's type of a Jeep-like vehicle and production started in 1954. The secure Cruiser happens to be released in convertible, hardtop, station wagon, and utility truck versions, and it is currently Toyota's flagship 4WD vehicle. The Land Cruiser's excellence and longevity has led to huge popularity, exclusively in Australia where it is the best-selling full-size, body-on-frame, four-wheel drive vehicle.Toyota also extensively tests the Land Cruiser in the Australian outbackÃ�ÃÂÃÂÃÂÂÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂconsidered to be one of the most challenging running environments with regards to of both environment and terrain. 40 Series 40 Series Toyota Secure Cruiser (BJ40LV) Also called Toyota Macho (Venezuela) Production 1960-1984 Assembly ARACO Yoshiwara,Aichi, Japan Body style(s) 2-door Softtop 2-door Hardtop 2-door pickup truck 4-door Station wagon Layout FR layout Engine(s) 3.0 L I4 B diesel 3.9 L I6 F petrol 4.2 L I6 2F petrol 3.6 L I6 H diesel Wheelbase 90 in (2286 mm) Size 151.2 in (3840.5 mm) Width 65.6 in (1666.2 mm) Height Softtop 76.8 in (1950.7 mm) Hardtop 78.8 in (2001.5 mm) Curb weight Softtop 3,263 lb (1,480 kg) Hardtop 3,427 lb (1,554 kg) * 1960 - The 20 Series was upgraded to the now classic 40. Toyota created numerous production changes by buying new steel presses. Automatically, the FJ40 was given a unique 125 hp, 3.9 liter F motor and the Land Cruiser finally received low-range gearing. The Brazilian unit had been rebadged the Bandeirante and received a Mercedes-Benz built Diesel engine generating 78 hp. * 1965 - Global production surpassed 50,000 vehicles. The Land Cruiser was the better selling Toyota in the United States Of America. * 1968 - The 100,000th secure Cruiser had been sold worldwide. * 1972 - The 200,000th Land Cruiser was sold globally. * 1973 - The 300,000th Land Cruiser was sold around the world. The starting diesel Land Cruiser was introduced for export on long wheelbase models with a six-cylinder H engine * 1974 - A four-cylinder 3.0-liter c diesel was offered. The introduction of this engine doubled sales in Japan by putting the Land Cruiser in a lower tax compact Freight-car market than the 3.9-liter gasoline version. Note: the brand-new B diesel system was many from the B gasoline engine used within the original BJ. * 1975 - The 3.9-liter gasoline engine was replaced by a bigger, more powerful 4.2-liter 2F unit. The FJ55 was given front disc brake system. * 1976 - United States-version FJ40 Land Cruisers was given front disk brake system like the FJ55. The Toyota Land Cruiser Association had been started in California. * 1977 - The Irish Army took delivery of the first of 77 FJ45 Land Cruisers. Although fast, legitimate and with good off-road performance the nature tended to rust excessively in the wet Irish climate. A few which did not yield to the benefits of weather were repainted in gloss olive green and survive as ceremonial gun tractors at military funerals. * 1978 - The starting BJ / FJ40 and FJ55 models were officially available in West Germany with both diesel (BJ40) and petrol engines (FJ40 /55). * 1979 - United States-version FJ40s were updated this year with a new wider, square bezel surrounding the headlights. Energy steering and cooler were offered in FJ40s for the first occasion. The diesel engine was improved, evolving into the 3.2-liter 2B exclusive in Japan. The 3.6-liter H diesel engine had been optional in some markets. * 1981 - the Diesel adaptation received front disk brakes and the a bit more powerful 3.4-liter 3B engine. 50 Series 50 Show Toyota Land Cruiser (FJ55LG) Manufacturing 1967-1980 Assembly ARACO Yoshiwara, Aichi, Japan Body style(s) 4-door station wagon Layout Front engine four-wheel drive Engine(s) 3.9 L I6 F petrol 4.2 L I6 2F petrol Transmission(s) 3 or 4-speed handbook (J30, H41 or H42) Wheelbase 2,710 mm (106.7 in) Length 4,673 mm (184.0 in) Width 1,710 mm (67.3 in) Height 1,864 mm (73.4 in) * 1967 - manufacturing of the FJ55 began. The FJ55 was a 4-door station wagon version based on the FJ40's Drive-train, replacing the 4-Door FJ45V (I). It was colloquially known as the "Moose". It offers also been referred to as a pig or an iron pig. The FJ55 had a more wheelbase 2710 mm and was designed to be available in North The usa and Australia. * Jan 1975 saw the F system changed by the 2F engine. Unusually for Toyota, the model (e.g. FJ55) decided not to change. * Unit 56 is actually in Japan merely, with 2F system ( Jan. 1975 - Jul. 1980 ). 60 Series 60 Series Toyota Secure Cruiser (FJ62LG) Also called Toyota Samurai (Venezuela) Production 1980-1990 Assembly ARACO Yoshiwara, Aichi, Japan Body style(s) 4-door station wagon Layout Front engine, four-wheel drive Engine(s) 3.4 L I4 3B diesel 3.4 L I4 13B-T diesel turbo 4.2 L I6 2F petrol 4.0 L I6 3F petrol 4.0 L I6 2H diesel 4.0 L I6 12H-T diesel turbo 4.2 L I6 1HZ diesel 4.2 L I6 1HD-T diesel turbo Transmission(s) 4-speed handbook H41F or H42F 4-speed automatic A440F 5-speed manual H55F (non-US) Wheelbase 2,730 mm (107.5 in) Length 4,675 mm (184.1 in) Width 1,800 mm (70.9 in) Elevation 1,750 mm (68.9 in) The initial Toyota Land Cruiser FJ 60 was available for purchase from 1981 through 1987. It is actually a front system four door wagon which has available seating of five to seven. It is well known in the off-roading community for its tremendous 4X4 capabilities, despite being somewhat limited by its poor departure angle. The FJ 60 had been offered within the following sturdy outside colors: mountain White, Brown, Desert Beige, Freeborn Red, Royal Blue; and in the following metallic outdoor colors: Charcoal Gray, Cognac, Gray-Blue, Rootbeer, Sky Blue, Stardust Silver. In compare to the FJ 62, the FJ 60 exhibits the classic round secure Cruiser headlights which are really replicated nowadays on the retro-style FJ Cruiser. * 1980 - The 60 series was introduced. While still retaining the tough off-road characteristics of previous Land Cruisers, the 60 had been created to better compete in the promising sport utility vehicle market. The 60 had been given a variety of luxuries like air conditioning, a back heater and an upgraded interior. The FJ60's "2F" petrol engine had been left unchanged from the "40" show while six-cylinder 4.0 litre 2H and four-cylinder 3.4 litre 3B diesel engines were added to the item line. * 1981 - secure Cruiser sales exceeded 1 million and a high-roof version had been introduced. The 60 had been introduced to South Africa when a stock secure Cruiser competed in the Toyota 1000 km Desert run within the punishing wilds of Botswana. * 1984 - This was the final 12 months for the 40. Specialist suppliers of aftermarket parts and restorers who return familiar FJ40s to better-than-new state replace Toyota dealers as the main source of Land Cruiser expertise. * 1984 - Alongside the 60, the Toyota Land Cruiser 70 Series were introduced. * 1985 - The Direct-injection 12H-T and 13B-T turbodiesel system were introduced. * 1988 - The petrol engine had been improved to a 4.0-litre 3F-E EFI engine. The FJ62G VX-Series had been introduced creating the Land Cruiser to feel sold in Japan as a passenger vehicle. * 1990 - The 80 show station wagon had been introduced, replacing the 60. The 80 had been originally offered with a solution of three engines; the 3F-E six-cylinder petrol system, a six-cylinder the 1HZ diesel and 1HD-T direct shot turbodiesel. * 1990 - All 80s sold in North America and Europe nowadays produce a full-time four-wheel drive system. In Japan, Africa and Australia, a part-time system was still available. 80s produced between 1990 and 1991 had an open centre differential which was lockable in 4HI and automatically locked in 4LO. From 1992 onward, vehicles with anti-lock brakes had a viscous coupling that sent a maximum of 30% torque to the non-slipping axle. The differential was lockable in 4HI and automatically locked in 4LO. Toyota Land Cruiser - Chassis and Body factory workshop and repair manual Covers FJ40,FJ43, FJ45, FJ60, BJ40, BJ 42, BJ43, BJ45, BJ46, BJ60 series and HJ47 and HJ60 series

### Understanding the Gearbox and Planetary Gear System

**Theory Behind Gearbox and Planetary Gears:**
A gearbox is a system that transmits power from the engine to the wheels. In a vehicle, it helps control the speed and torque delivered to the wheels. A planetary gear set is a type of gearbox that consists of three main components:

1. **Sun Gear:** The central gear that drives the others.
2. **Planet Gears:** These are the smaller gears that rotate around the sun gear. They are mounted on a carrier.
3. **Ring Gear:** The outer gear that encases the planet gears. It has internal teeth that mesh with the planet gears.

**How it Works:**
- The engine turns the sun gear.
- The planet gears rotate around the sun gear while also turning on their axes.
- The carrier holds the planet gears and can also rotate, transferring power to the ring gear or output shaft.

**Why Replacement is Needed:**
- **Wear and Tear:** Over time, the gears can wear down due to friction and heat.
- **Noise/Vibration:** If you hear grinding or clunking noises, it may indicate gear failure.
- **Slipping:** If the gearbox slips out of gear, it can be caused by damaged planetary gears.

### Tools and Components Needed

**Tools:**
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Pliers
- Gear puller
- Clean rag
- Gasket scraper
- Oil drain pan

**Components:**
- Replacement planetary gear set
- Gear oil
- Gasket or sealant (if needed)
- New oil filter (if applicable)

### Step-by-Step Replacement Process

1. **Preparation:**
- Ensure the vehicle is on a flat surface.
- Disconnect the battery to prevent any electrical issues.
- Lift the vehicle using a jack and secure it on jack stands.

2. **Drain Gear Oil:**
- Place the oil drain pan under the gearbox.
- Remove the drain plug (if applicable) and let the oil drain completely.

3. **Remove the Gearbox:**
- Disconnect any linkages or cables attached to the gearbox.
- Remove the bolts securing the gearbox to the chassis.
- Carefully slide the gearbox out from the chassis. Be cautious of the weight and position.

4. **Disassemble the Gearbox:**
- Lay the gearbox on a clean work surface.
- Remove the outer casing bolts using a socket set.
- Carefully lift the casing off to expose the internal components.

5. **Remove the Planetary Gear Set:**
- Locate the planetary gear set inside the gearbox.
- Remove the retaining clips or bolts holding the planet carrier in place.
- Gently pull the planet carrier out, making sure to keep all parts organized.

6. **Inspect Components:**
- Check the sun gear, planet gears, and ring gear for wear or damage.
- Look for pitting, cracks, or excessive wear.

7. **Replace with New Planetary Gear Set:**
- Position the new planetary gear set into the gearbox.
- Make sure it’s seated correctly and aligned.

8. **Reassemble the Gearbox:**
- Replace the outer casing and secure it with bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to ensure even pressure.
- Install any retaining clips or bolts for the planetary gears.

9. **Reinstall the Gearbox:**
- Carefully lift the gearbox back into position.
- Bolt it securely to the chassis.
- Reconnect any linkages or cables.

10. **Fill with Gear Oil:**
- Replace the drain plug if removed.
- Fill the gearbox with new gear oil through the fill hole until it reaches the recommended level.

11. **Reconnect the Battery:**
- Reconnect the battery terminals.

12. **Test Drive:**
- Start the vehicle and check for any unusual noises.
- Take it for a test drive to ensure the gearbox is functioning smoothly.

### What Can Go Wrong
- **Incorrect Installation:** Misalignment can cause premature wear or failure.
- **Not Using the Right Gear Oil:** Using the wrong type can lead to poor lubrication.
- **Ignoring Symptoms:** Failing to address early signs of wear can lead to a complete gearbox failure.

### Conclusion
Replacing a planetary gear set can seem daunting, but with the right tools, components, and a clear step-by-step process, it can be accomplished successfully. Always ensure to follow safety procedures and consult service manuals for specific vehicle guidelines. rteeqp73

### AC Recharge on a Toyota Chassis Body

#### Theory Behind AC System

The air conditioning (AC) system in your car cools the air inside the cabin. It operates on the principles of refrigeration, using refrigerant to absorb heat from inside the car and release it outside.

**Key Components:**

1. **Compressor:** The heart of the AC system; it compresses the refrigerant to a high-pressure gas.
2. **Condenser:** Located at the front of the car, it cools the high-pressure gas, turning it into a liquid.
3. **Expansion Valve (or Orifice Tube):** Reduces pressure, allowing the refrigerant to expand and cool before entering the evaporator.
4. **Evaporator:** Located inside the cabin, it absorbs heat from the air, cooling it down before circulating it back into the car.
5. **Refrigerant:** The fluid (commonly R-134a or R-1234yf) that circulates through the system, transferring heat.

#### Why Recharge is Necessary

Over time, AC systems can lose refrigerant due to leaks or normal wear. Low refrigerant levels lead to inadequate cooling, causing the system to work harder, which can lead to compressor damage. Think of it like a bike tire losing air; the lower the pressure, the less efficient it becomes, and eventually, it won’t work at all.

#### How the AC System Works

1. **Compression:** The compressor takes in low-pressure refrigerant gas and compresses it into a high-pressure gas.
2. **Condensation:** The gas moves to the condenser, where it releases heat to the outside air and turns into a liquid.
3. **Expansion:** The liquid refrigerant passes through the expansion valve, lowering its pressure and temperature.
4. **Evaporation:** The cold refrigerant enters the evaporator, absorbing heat from the cabin air, cooling it down. The refrigerant then turns back into gas and returns to the compressor to repeat the cycle.

### Recharging the AC System

**Tools Required:**
- AC recharge kit (includes refrigerant can and manifold gauge)
- Safety goggles and gloves
- Thermometer (optional, for checking vent temperature)

#### Step-by-Step Procedure

1. **Safety First:**
- Wear safety goggles and gloves.
- Ensure the car is parked on level ground with the engine off.

2. **Locate AC Service Ports:**
- Find the low-pressure service port (typically larger in size) on the AC line. It’s usually located near the compressor.

3. **Connect Manifold Gauges:**
- If using a recharge kit with gauges, connect the blue (low-pressure) hose to the low-pressure port.
- Ensure the red (high-pressure) hose is not connected yet; you will only charge from the low side.

4. **Check Pressure:**
- Start the engine and turn the AC to the maximum setting.
- Observe the gauge reading. A low pressure (below 30 psi) indicates a need for recharge.

5. **Prepare the Refrigerant:**
- Shake the refrigerant can gently to mix it.
- Attach the can to the low-pressure side (blue) of the manifold gauge.

6. **Recharge the System:**
- Open the valve on the refrigerant can. You may need to press a trigger to start the flow.
- Monitor the pressure gauge; aim for a reading between 30-40 psi while the AC is running.
- Avoid overcharging: if the gauge approaches 50 psi, stop.

7. **Check for Cooling:**
- After adding refrigerant, feel the air coming from the vents. It should be noticeably cooler.
- Optionally, use a thermometer to measure the vent temperature, aiming for below 50°F.

8. **Disconnect and Seal:**
- Close the valve on the refrigerant can and disconnect the hose.
- Replace the service port cap.

9. **Test Drive:**
- Take the car for a short drive, monitoring the AC performance.

### What Can Go Wrong

1. **Leakage:** If there’s a leak, the refrigerant will escape, leading to recurring issues. Look for oily spots around connections or components.
2. **Overcharging:** Adding too much refrigerant can cause high pressure, damaging the compressor or causing the system to stop functioning.
3. **Compressor Failure:** If the compressor is damaged due to lack of refrigerant, it may require complete replacement.
4. **Clogged Filter/Dryer:** A clogged component can restrict flow, leading to poor performance.

### Conclusion

Recharging the AC system is a straightforward process that ensures your vehicle's cabin remains cool, especially during hot weather. Regular checks can prevent larger issues down the line. Always adhere to safety practices and consult a professional if you encounter persistent problems.
rteeqp73

### Overview of Shock Mount Replacement on a Toyota Chassis Body

**Theory Behind the Repair:**

Shock mounts connect the shock absorbers to the vehicle's chassis. They serve two primary functions:

1. **Damping**: They allow shocks to absorb bumps and irregularities in the road, providing a smooth ride.
2. **Stability**: They help maintain the vehicle's alignment and handling characteristics.

Over time, shock mounts can wear out due to exposure to road conditions, vibrations, and stress. A worn shock mount can lead to noise, decreased ride quality, and poor handling—similar to trying to balance on a wobbly stool.

### Components Involved:

1. **Shock Absorber**: A hydraulic device that dampens the impact of bumps.
2. **Shock Mount**: The rubber or polyurethane component that connects the shock to the chassis.
3. **Mounting Bolts**: Fasteners that secure the shock mount to the chassis and shock absorber.
4. **Washer**: Distributes the load from the bolt head over a larger area.
5. **Nut**: Secures the mounting bolt in place.

### Tools Required:

- Socket wrench set
- Torque wrench
- Ratchet and extension
- Pry bar
- Jack and jack stands or a lift
- Safety glasses
- Gloves

### Steps for Shock Mount Replacement:

1. **Safety First**:
- Park the vehicle on a flat surface and engage the parking brake.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.

2. **Lift the Vehicle**:
- Using a jack, lift the rear or front of the vehicle depending on which shock mount you are replacing.
- Secure the vehicle with jack stands.

3. **Remove the Wheel (if applicable)**:
- If you're replacing a rear shock mount, you may need to remove the wheel for better access. Use the socket wrench to remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.

4. **Locate the Shock Absorber**:
- Identify the shock absorber and the shock mount at the top and bottom of the shock.

5. **Remove the Shock Absorber**:
- Use a socket wrench to remove the bolts securing the shock absorber at both ends (top and bottom).
- If the bolts are rusted or stiff, a penetrating oil may help loosen them.
- Once removed, gently pull the shock out of its mount.

6. **Remove the Old Shock Mount**:
- The shock mount is typically held in place with bolts. Use the socket wrench to remove these bolts.
- Carefully pry the old shock mount off if it’s stuck, taking care not to damage surrounding components.

7. **Inspect the Area**:
- Before installing the new mount, inspect the shock absorber for any signs of damage or leakage. If the shock is damaged, replace it as well.

8. **Install the New Shock Mount**:
- Position the new shock mount onto the chassis. Align it with the holes for the mounting bolts.
- Insert the bolts through the shock mount and tighten them by hand first, then use the socket wrench for a snug fit.

9. **Reinstall the Shock Absorber**:
- Position the shock absorber back into its mounting points.
- Secure it with the bolts you previously removed, ensuring they are tightened properly.

10. **Reattach the Wheel (if applicable)**:
- If you removed the wheel, place it back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle slightly to put weight on the wheel, then use the torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.

11. **Lower the Vehicle**:
- Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle completely.

12. **Test Drive**:
- Take the vehicle for a test drive to ensure that the ride feels stable and that there are no unusual noises.

### What Can Go Wrong:

- **Improper Installation**: If the shock mount is not securely fastened, it can lead to a loose fit, causing noise and compromised handling.
- **Damaged Shock Absorbers**: If the shock absorbers are not in good condition, replacing mounts alone won’t solve ride quality issues.
- **Corrosion**: Old bolts and mounts can be corroded, making removal difficult. Always inspect and replace as necessary.

### Conclusion:

Replacing shock mounts is crucial for maintaining ride quality and vehicle handling. By carefully following the steps and understanding the components and their functions, you can successfully perform this repair, ensuring a smoother and safer driving experience.
rteeqp73