### Gearbox Reconditioning on a Nissan Skyline R32

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (metric)
2. **Torque Wrench**
3. **Pliers**
4. **Screwdrivers** (flat and Phillips)
5. **Gear Puller**
6. **Extractors**
7. **Bench Vise**
8. **Cleaning Supplies** (degreaser, brushes)
9. **Seal Puller**
10. **Magnetic Pick-Up Tool**
11. **Measuring Tools** (calipers, micrometer)
12. **Gasket Scraper**
13. **Fluid Transfer Pump**
14. **Crane or Engine Hoist** (for heavy lifting)
15. **Safety Gear** (gloves, goggles, mask)

#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)**: Wear gloves, goggles, and a mask to protect against dirt and debris.
2. **Ventilation**: Ensure the workspace is well-ventilated, especially when using cleaners.
3. **Stability**: Use wheel chocks and jack stands if the vehicle is lifted.
4. **Handle Fluids Properly**: Dispose of old transmission fluid according to local regulations.

### Step-by-Step Process:

#### Step 1: Remove the Gearbox
1. **Disconnect the Battery**: Remove negative terminal to avoid electrical issues.
2. **Lift the Vehicle**: Use a jack and jack stands to elevate the vehicle safely.
3. **Remove the Driveshaft**: Unbolt at the differential and gearbox ends, using a socket set.
4. **Disconnect Linkages**: Detach any shifter linkages and electrical connectors.
5. **Unbolt the Gearbox**: Remove bolts securing the gearbox to the engine and the crossmember.
6. **Lower the Gearbox**: Use a crane or hoist to carefully lower the gearbox out of the vehicle.

#### Step 2: Disassemble the Gearbox
1. **Clean the Exterior**: Use a degreaser and brushes to clean the outside of the gearbox.
2. **Remove the Bell Housing**: Unbolt and separate it from the main gearbox casing.
3. **Take Out the Gears**: Use a gear puller if needed to extract gears and shafts.
4. **Remove Synchros and Bearings**: Take out synchros and bearings, noting their orientation and position.

#### Step 3: Inspect Components
1. **Check Gears**: Look for wear or damage; replace if necessary.
2. **Inspect Bearings**: Use a micrometer to check tolerances; replace if worn.
3. **Examine Housing**: Check for cracks or damage that could affect seals.

#### Step 4: Clean and Replace Parts
1. **Clean Internal Components**: Use a cleaning solution to remove any debris.
2. **Replace Seals and Gaskets**: Install new seals and gaskets to prevent leaks.
3. **Replace Worn Components**: Order and install new bearings, synchros, or gears as required.

#### Step 5: Reassemble the Gearbox
1. **Reinstall Gears and Components**: Follow the reverse order of disassembly. Ensure proper alignment.
2. **Use Torque Wrench**: Torque bolts to specifications to prevent over-tightening.
3. **Test Gear Engagement**: Manually shift through the gearbox to ensure smooth operation.

#### Step 6: Reinstall the Gearbox
1. **Lift the Gearbox Back into Place**: Use the hoist to lift and align the gearbox with the engine.
2. **Reattach Bell Housing**: Secure the bell housing to the engine with specified torque.
3. **Reconnect Driveshaft**: Bolt driveshaft back to the gearbox and differential.
4. **Reconnect Linkages and Electricals**: Ensure all connections are secure.

#### Step 7: Fill with Fluid
1. **Use a Fluid Transfer Pump**: Fill the gearbox with the recommended transmission fluid until it reaches the fill level.
2. **Check for Leaks**: Inspect all seals and connections for leaks.

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
1. **Ignoring Service Manual**: Always refer to the factory service manual for torque specs and procedures.
2. **Not Labeling Parts**: Label components during disassembly to avoid confusion during reassembly.
3. **Forgetting to Replace Seals**: Always replace seals and gaskets to avoid future leaks.
4. **Neglecting Cleanliness**: Ensure all parts are clean before reassembly to prevent contamination.

### Conclusion:
Reconditioning the gearbox on a Nissan Skyline R32 requires precision and attention to detail. By following these steps and using the right tools, you can effectively restore the gearbox to its optimal condition. Always prioritize safety and refer to OEM specifications throughout the process.
rteeqp73

### Shift Interlock Repair on a Nissan Skyline R32

#### Theory Behind Shift Interlock System

The shift interlock system in a vehicle prevents the gear shift from moving out of the "Park" position unless the brake pedal is depressed. This is a safety feature designed to prevent accidental movement of the vehicle when it's not safe to do so, similar to how a seatbelt prevents you from being thrown forward in a sudden stop.

#### Components of the Shift Interlock System

1. **Shift Selector Mechanism**: This is where you select your gear (Park, Reverse, Drive). It’s usually located on the center console.

2. **Brake Pedal Switch**: When you press the brake pedal, this switch closes the circuit, allowing power to flow to the interlock release mechanism.

3. **Interlock Solenoid**: This is an electromagnetic component that engages/disengages the lock mechanism based on input from the brake pedal switch.

4. **Locking Mechanism**: Usually a simple mechanical latch that physically prevents the shifter from moving out of the "Park" position.

5. **Wiring Harness**: Connects the brake pedal switch to the interlock solenoid and the shift selector mechanism.

#### Common Issues

1. **Faulty Brake Pedal Switch**: If the switch fails, it may not send the signal to release the interlock, preventing you from shifting out of "Park".

2. **Broken Wiring**: Damaged or corroded wires can interrupt the signal between the brake pedal switch and the solenoid.

3. **Faulty Interlock Solenoid**: If the solenoid fails, it may not engage or disengage the locking mechanism.

4. **Mechanical Jam**: Dirt or debris in the shift selector mechanism can prevent proper movement.

#### Tools Needed

- Screwdriver set (flathead and Phillips)
- Ratchet set
- Pliers
- Multimeter (for electrical testing)
- Replacement parts (if needed)

### Repair Steps

1. **Safety First**:
- Ensure the car is in a safe location.
- Disconnect the battery to prevent electrical shorts.

2. **Access the Shift Selector Mechanism**:
- Remove the center console cover using a screwdriver. This may involve unscrewing several screws or clips.
- Carefully lift the console to expose the shift selector assembly.

3. **Inspect the Brake Pedal Switch**:
- Locate the brake pedal switch (usually mounted on or near the brake pedal).
- Use a multimeter to check if the switch is functioning. When the pedal is pressed, the multimeter should show continuity.
- If faulty, replace the brake pedal switch.

4. **Check Wiring**:
- Inspect the wiring harness for any signs of wear, corrosion, or breaks.
- Repair or replace damaged wires as necessary.

5. **Test the Interlock Solenoid**:
- Locate the interlock solenoid near the shift selector.
- Disconnect it and test it with a multimeter. It should show resistance when functioning.
- If it's not working, replace the solenoid.

6. **Examine the Locking Mechanism**:
- Inspect the locking mechanism for any obstructions or wear. Clean any dirt or debris that may be causing jamming.
- Lubricate moving parts if necessary.

7. **Reassemble the Shift Selector**:
- Once all components are inspected and repaired, reassemble the shift selector mechanism.
- Reinstall the center console cover, ensuring all screws and clips are securely fastened.

8. **Reconnect the Battery**:
- Reconnect the battery and test the shifter. Press the brake pedal and check if the shifter moves out of "Park" smoothly.

9. **Test Drive**:
- Take the car for a short drive to confirm that the shift interlock system is functioning properly.

### Conclusion

By following these steps, you can repair the shift interlock system on a Nissan Skyline R32. Understanding the components and their functions is crucial for both the repair process and for diagnosing any future issues. Just remember, take your time, and don't rush through the steps!
rteeqp73

Tools & supplies
- Basic metric socket/ratchet set (8–19 mm), extension bars, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm)
- Harmonic balancer / crank pulley bolt socket (usually 24–27 mm depending on model)
- Crank pulley / harmonic balancer puller (3‑jaw or M12 style)
- Cam sprocket holding tool(s) / cam locking tool (Nissan special or aftermarket equivalent)
- Crankshaft locking pin or crank holding tool
- Engine support/hoist or engine support bar (if engine mounts must be loosened)
- Floor jack + wood block, jack stands, wheel chocks
- Drain pan, coolant catch bottle, rags
- Screwdrivers, small pry bars, gasket scraper
- Seal driver / appropriate size socket or soft mallet
- RTV sealant (as specified by Nissan) and gasket sealant if required
- New timing cover gasket, front crankshaft oil seal, any O‑rings specified in the kit
- Replacement bolts if any are marked single‑use in manual (some covers use torque‑to‑yield)
- Cleaning solvent (brake cleaner), shop towels, safety glasses, nitrile gloves

Safety precautions (no exceptions)
- Work on a flat surface, car in Park/1st gear with wheels chocked.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands; do NOT rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- If supporting the engine or removing mounts, use an engine hoist/support bar to avoid engine drop.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; expect oil/coolant spillage.
- Relieve cooling system pressure before opening radiator/coolant lines.
- Follow factory torque specs and tightening sequences — over‑ or under‑torquing causes leaks or failure.

General notes before starting
- This guide covers the RB‑series engines in the R32 Skyline (RB20/RB25/RB26) — basic procedure is the same, but details and bolt locations vary. Always cross‑check with the factory service manual (FSM) for exact bolt sizes, sequences and torque specs.
- Replace the front crankshaft oil seal every time the cover is off. Consider replacing timing chain guides/tensioner if worn or high mileage.
- Have replacement gaskets/seals ready; reusing old gaskets commonly causes leaks.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect negative battery.
- Raise front of car, secure on jack stands. Remove engine undercover / splash panels for access.
- Place drain pans. Drain engine oil and coolant if required (oil may not be necessary unless oil pan removal is needed).
- Remove air intake piping, intercooler piping (for turbo models), and anything obstructing front of engine: radiator fan shroud/fan (or remove radiator if necessary), fan clutch, fan hub, alternator, power steering pump/bracket and AC compressor bracket if they block the cover — you may be able to unbolt and move them aside without disconnecting hoses.

2) Remove drive belts and accessories
- Remove accessory drive belts (alternator, power steering, A/C). Note routing.
- Unbolt and remove alternator and other accessories as required to gain clear access to front cover. Label connectors/bolts if helpful.

3) Remove crank pulley / harmonic balancer
- Turn engine to TDC on #1 compression (use crank pulley timing mark and feel for compression or use compression gauge). This helps when locking timing later.
- Remove crankshaft pulley bolt. Use appropriate socket and breaker bar; impact gun can be used carefully.
- Install harmonic balancer puller and remove crank pulley/harmonic balancer.

4) Lock engine timing (critical)
- Set engine at TDC #1 compression stroke using marks. Install crankshaft locking pin into the block hole if available (FSM shows location).
- Use camshaft holding/locking tool(s) on cam sprockets to prevent rotation. For RB26DETT (twin cams), you need to immobilize both camshafts and the crank. If you don’t have factory tools, hold cams with an appropriate wrench and have an assistant — however, using proper locking tools reduces risk of timing jump.
- DO NOT rotate the crank/cam once locked. If timing marks move, stop and re‑establish TDC before proceeding.

5) Remove timing cover fasteners & ancillary parts
- Remove all bolts securing the timing cover. Note some bolts are long and some short; keep them organized by location.
- Remove any sensors, brackets or small components attached to the timing cover (oil pressure switch, harness clips, hose fittings).
- If the lower timing cover edge is blocked by oil pan, you may need to remove the oil pan. This requires draining oil, removing trans/mount considerations depending on model. Many RB engines allow cover removal without full oil pan removal but expect to remove lower splash or loosely unbolt pan edges — consult FSM.

6) Remove timing cover
- Carefully pry the cover off using a thin pry blade at the gasket edge; don’t gouge the machined surfaces. Work around the perimeter to break the gasket seal.
- Lift cover free. Watch for timing chain tensioner components, springs, or guides that might shift. Keep the cover oriented so you can inspect and compare.

7) Inspect components & replace seals/gaskets
- Inspect timing chain, guides, tensioner condition. If worn, replace chain guides and tensioner while you have access.
- Remove old crankshaft front oil seal from cover (or from block) using a seal puller. Clean sealing surfaces thoroughly—remove all gasket material and old RTV; use solvent and a plastic scraper only.
- Install new crank oil seal into the cover or block with a seal driver or appropriately sized socket. Seat evenly and flush to spec (check FSM). Do not hammer directly on the seal lip.
- Install new timing cover gasket(s) per kit instructions. Some engines use RTV in addition to a paper gasket — apply RTV only where FSM specifies.

8) Reinstall timing cover
- With timing components still locked, position new gasket and carefully fit timing cover into place, making sure chains/guides seat correctly and nothing is pinched.
- Start bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Tighten in manufacturer‑specified sequence to avoid warping.
- Torque bolts to FSM specs using torque wrench. If manual requires sequential torque steps, follow them.

9) Reinstall crank pulley & remove locks
- Reinstall harmonic balancer/crank pulley and torque central bolt to spec. Some engines require an alignment of keyway and could require thread locker per manual.
- Remove cam/crank locking tools and pins. Double‑check timing marks to ensure nothing moved.
- If specified, rotate engine by hand two full revolutions and recheck timing marks/valve clearance to confirm correct reassembly.

10) Reassemble accessories & refill fluids
- Reinstall accessory components, belts (set correct belt tension), fans, shrouds, radiator, intercooler piping, and air intake.
- Refill engine oil if drained and coolant if drained. Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Start engine and run at idle. Check for oil leaks around timing cover and around crank seal. Observe oil pressure and listen for abnormal noises (chain rattle may indicate tensioner issue).

11) Final checks
- After warm up, re‑torque bolts if FSM requires a retorque procedure (some engines do). Inspect for leaks again after a short test drive.

How the critical tools are used (brief)
- Harmonic balancer puller: screw puller bolts into the hub of the pulley and use the central forcing screw to pull the pulley off the crankshaft gently and evenly.
- Camshaft holding tool: fits over cam sprocket bolts or notches on the cam to lock them in place; prevents cam rotation when cover is removed.
- Crankshaft locking pin: inserted into a block hole that aligns only at TDC; prevents crank rotation while working.
- Seal driver: a socket or driver of the same outer diameter as the seal is used to press the new seal evenly into place—tap gently with a mallet until it seats flush to specified depth.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not locking timing: risk of valve/piston interference or jumped timing. Always lock cams and crank at TDC before removing the cover.
- Reusing gaskets/seals: causes leaks. Always replace front crank seal and cover gasket.
- Damaging sealing surfaces: avoid metal scrapers on machined faces; gouges lead to leaks. Clean with solvent and a plastic scraper.
- Over/under tightening cover bolts: can warp cover or cause leaks. Use torque wrench and FSM specs.
- Forgetting to support engine when removing mounts: can cause engine sag and damage mounts/hoses.
- Not replacing worn guides/tensioner: weak tensioner leads to chain slack and noise later.
- Using improper RTV: use the OEM‑specified type and apply only where FSM indicates — excess RTV can contaminate oil passages.
- Reinstalling crank pulley incorrectly: misalignment or improper torque can damage keyway or cause vibration.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Timing cover gasket(s)
- Front crankshaft oil seal (always replace)
- Timing cover bolts that are one‑time use (check FSM)
- Optional: timing chain guides, tensioner, chain (if worn/high mileage), O‑rings and gaskets for sensors/ports exposed during disassembly
- RTV or sealant as specified by Nissan

Final reminder (no fluff)
- This is an intermediate/advanced job. If you’re not familiar with locking tools and engine timing procedures, or lack the FSM for torque specs and locking tool locations, get professional help. Incorrect timing or improper sealing can cause major engine damage.
rteeqp73

- Safety and prep (read once, follow while working)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves and sturdy shoes; transmission parts are heavy and greasy.
- Work on level ground, use quality jack stands for the car and a transmission jack or strong floor jack with wide plywood block for the gearbox.
- Have a clean, organized workspace and trays/labels for fasteners and small parts; contamination or mixed-up parts can ruin reassembly.
- Get the factory service manual for the R32 (model-specific disassembly order, bolt torques, shims and clearance specs) and follow its torque/clearance numbers exactly.

- Tools you probably already have (basic tool descriptions and how to use them)
- Metric socket set (6–24 mm, deep and shallow sockets)
- Description: ratchet-compatible sockets in metric sizes used for almost every bolt.
- How to use: choose correct size to avoid rounding bolts; use extensions for recessed bolts; break loose with breaker bar first if tight.
- Ratchet handle and extensions
- Description: 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchets to turn sockets.
- How to use: use a 3/8" for most gearbox bolts; extensions let you reach inside recesses.
- Combination wrench set (open-end and box-end)
- Description: metric wrenches for tight spaces where sockets won't fit.
- How to use: hold from box end for best torque, use correct size to avoid rounding.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long non-ratcheting bar for loosening very tight bolts.
- How to use: steady force, avoid sudden jerks; use cheater pipe only briefly and carefully.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 3/8" and/or 1/2" drive)
- Description: settable wrench to tighten bolts to specified torque.
- How to use: set required value, tighten smoothly until it clicks; recheck critical bolts to spec.
- Screwdrivers and hex/allen keys
- Description: flat and Phillips screwdrivers; metric hex set for small screws.
- How to use: use proper tip size to avoid stripping heads.
- Needle-nose pliers and standard pliers
- Description: for clips, hirings, pulling seals and isolating springs.
- How to use: grip firmly, use pliers to manipulate circlips carefully.
- Hammer and soft-faced (dead blow) mallet
- Description: steel hammer for stubborn parts; dead-blow for gentle persuasion.
- How to use: use dead-blow to avoid damage to housings; light taps only on shafts or caps.
- Punch and drift set
- Description: metal punches for driving out roll pins, dowels.
- How to use: support part, use correct diameter punch and controlled blows.
- Snap-ring / circlip pliers (internal and external)
- Description: pliers that spread or compress circlips.
- How to use: select right jaws (internal vs. external), compress/expand slowly to remove/install clips without distortion.
- Drain pan and fluid funnel
- Description: to catch gearbox oil when draining.
- How to use: position pan under drain, refill using funnel to avoid spills.
- Shop rags and brake parts cleaner or parts degreaser
- Description: cleaning solvents and lint-free rags.
- How to use: degrease parts before inspection; do not inhale fumes, use in ventilated area.

- Extra/specialty tools you will likely need (why they are required, descriptions and usage)
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter
- Why required: safe removal and installation of the heavy gearbox; prevents dropping.
- Description/usage: center gearbox on jack saddle, lift/lower slowly while aligning bellhousing and mounts.
- Engine support or hoist (if removing forward-mounted trans and engine needs support)
- Why required: sometimes transmission removal requires supporting engine or subframe.
- Description/usage: use support bar or hoist to hold engine while transmission is detached.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- Why required: measure shift drum runout and endplay to factory specs.
- Description/usage: mount base to case, contact drum surface, rotate and measure peak-to-peak runout.
- Vernier caliper and micrometer
- Why required: measure thickness of shift forks, diameter of bushings and shafts to check wear within tolerance.
- Description/usage: measure across fork tips, journal diameters and compare to spec.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer
- Why required: remove pressed-on bearings and seals without damaging housings.
- Description/usage: hook jaws behind bearing, pull straight out; use even pressure.
- Hydraulic press (bench press) or arbor press
- Why required: install/remove bearings, seals and bushings that are interference fit.
- Description/usage: press parts straight on/off using correct adapters to avoid brinnelling.
- Seal drivers and drift sleeves
- Why required: install oil seals squarely to avoid leaks.
- Description/usage: use driver matching seal OD, tap evenly until flush to spec.
- Feeler gauges and thickness gauge
- Why required: check clearances (fork clearance, drum lateral play, end float).
- Description/usage: insert gauge to check gaps per manual tolerances.
- Small bench vise with soft jaws or padded blocks
- Why required: hold shafts and small components for measuring and pressing.
- Description/usage: protect parts with soft jaws, clamp gently for stability.
- Parts washer or solvent tank
- Why required: clean contaminants off gears and small parts for accurate inspection.
- Description/usage: use solvent and brush, dry parts thoroughly before reassembly.
- Magnetic pickup and torque angle gauge (optional)
- Why required: recover dropped small parts; torque-angle if manual requires angle torque.
- Description/usage: use magnet to pick up fasteners; follow angle tool instructions if used.
- Threadlocker and anti-seize compounds
- Why required: secure bolts per manual (Loctite) and avoid galling on certain fasteners.
- Description/usage: apply small amount where specified; avoid contaminating bearings.

- High-level stepwise actions (bulleted major tasks for a beginner)
- Drain gearbox oil and remove shift linkage, driveshafts/axles, starter and any brackets attached to transmission while labeling parts and their fasteners.
- Support engine/trans with jack and remove bellhousing bolts; lower transmission using transmission jack.
- Clean external dirt before opening case to avoid contamination.
- Split transmission case following manual order; keep bolt locations marked (lengths vary).
- Remove selector mechanism, detent assembly, shift forks and lay them out in order.
- Remove shift drum and inspect grooves, cam tracks and bearing journals.
- Inspect shift forks for wear at tips and fork pad surfaces; inspect fork bushes/bearing journals and selector sliders for ovaling or worn edges.
- Measure wear: use micrometer/caliper on fork thickness, measure drum groove wear and runout with dial indicator, check bushings/journal diameters against service limits.
- Replace worn parts (see replacement list below) or send drum/forks to specialist if re-machining is an option (weld and machine or fit hardened inserts).
- Replace all obvious soft items: seals, gaskets, oil seals, O-rings, and any bearings that show pitting.
- Clean all parts thoroughly, lubricate moving surfaces with assembly lube or gear oil, and reassemble in reverse order using correct shims and torque values from the manual.
- Set shift drum indexing and detent springs correctly as per manual, verify smooth gear selection by hand on bench before reinstalling.
- Refit transmission to car, reconnect linkages, refill with correct gear oil, and road test carefully to confirm fix.

- Common parts that often need replacement (why and what to buy)
- Shift drum (selector drum)
- Why replace: worn cam tracks or oversized grooves cause sloppy or missed shifts, inability to hold a gear.
- What to buy: OEM or high-quality aftermarket hardened drum specific to R32 model; replacement rather than cheap repair unless professionally machined.
- Shift forks (selector / engagement forks)
- Why replace: fork tips wear or bend, fork pads wear down causing misalignment and gear pop-out.
- What to buy: new forks or re-surfaced ones; some aftermarket options have replaceable pads.
- Fork bushings / guide bushings / bearings
- Why replace: worn bushings create sideways play, accelerate drum/fork wear.
- What to buy: replacement bushings or bronze inserts to spec.
- Detent springs and balls/pallets
- Why replace: weak or damaged detents cause poor gear indexing or slip out of gear.
- What to buy: kit of detent springs/balls for model.
- Seals and gaskets (case gasket, output/input shaft seals)
- Why replace: seals are cheap and old ones will leak when disturbed.
- What to buy: full gasket/seal kit for R32 transmission.
- Bearings (mainshaft, countershaft, pilot bearings)
- Why replace: worn or pitted bearings cause noise and misalignment; damage to shaft journals.
- What to buy: OEM or high-quality bearings to spec; replace in pairs if recommended.
- Shift fork liners/pads (if fitted)
- Why replace: liners wear quicker than full fork; cheap way to restore surface.
- What to buy: fork pad kits or new forks depending on wear.
- Snap rings, circlips, spring washers
- Why replace: circlips can weaken or deform on removal; cheap, replace as a matter of course.
- What to buy: new circlips sized for shafts.

- How to decide whether to replace or repair a part
- Replace if dimension outside factory wear limits, visible cracking, heavy pitting, deep grooves or bent parts.
- Consider reconditioning only with a reputable machine shop (welding and regrind on drum or fork re-hardening); cost can approach replacement so compare.
- Replace all soft consumables (seals, gaskets, small springs) regardless of appearance.

- How to use the measuring tools for wear checks (short practical notes)
- Caliper/micrometer: measure fork tip thickness and compare to spec; zero tool and measure at multiple points to detect taper.
- Dial indicator: mount on case, register on drum land and rotate drum slowly to check runout; record peak-to-peak and compare to manual.
- Feeler gauge: check endplay between drum and case or fork clearance in groove; refer to manual tolerance.

- Reassembly tips and final checks
- Replace gaskets/seals and apply light coat of assembly lube to moving surfaces.
- Torque bolts to factory specs with torque wrench; never skip torque step.
- Verify smooth rotation and gear selection on the bench before installing.
- Refill with correct grade and qty of transmission oil specified in manual; run and check for leaks.
- Initial road test: short, careful drive and re-torque external fasteners after cool-down.

- Time, difficulty and when to get help
- This is an advanced job for a beginner; expect many hours if first time and the right tools aren’t on hand.
- If you lack a transmission jack, press, dial indicator or can't access the service manual, get professional help—mistakes can make transmission unusable.
- Use a specialist shop for press-fitting bearings or welding/machining drums.

- Quick symptom-to-fix mapping (common symptoms)
- Difficulty engaging gears or missed shifts → inspect shift drum grooves, fork wear, detent springs.
- Gear pops out under load → worn fork pads, worn drum groove or weak detents.
- Excessive lateral play or sloppy shifter → worn bushings or bearings/journal wear.
- Leaks after reassembly → old seals/gaskets or improper seal driver use.

- Parts sources and quality
- OEM Nissan parts from dealer for critical items (drum, forks, bearings) when available.
- Reputable aftermarket suppliers for hardened drums or upgraded fork kits if offered for R32.
- Avoid very cheap “mystery” parts; transmission components require dimensional accuracy and material hardness.

- Final note (do this)
- Get the R32 service manual, gather required specialty tools (transmission jack, dial indicator, press or access to a shop that has them), order gasket/seal kit and any suspect parts before disassembly, and plan to replace consumables—do not attempt repair blind.


rteeqp73